Sunday, November 24, 2013

Hiking - Portage Glacier Trail (all the way to the beach)


Stats

Distance:  4.7 miles                  Difficulty: Strenuous                                Time:  5 hrs

Summary

We chose to try the Portage Glacier Trail on 10 Jul 2013.  The hike goes up a nearly continuous inclined for a 750 ft elevation change, then back down (more gently) the full 750 ft to reach the portage glacier lake.  We found the hike on the National Park Service map (NPS Portage Glacier Trail).  This page is useful, but someone dated, see The Hike section of this post for updated information.

Opinion

This is a fabulous hike!  But we wouldn’t recommend it to anyone who is not at least reasonably fit.  The highlights of the hike include
a terrific view of the Whittier arm of Prince William Sound, a gorgeous alpine lake overlooking Portage Glacier, and a great view of the Portage Glacier. 


Trail Advice

This trail has the usual voracious mosquitoes during summer and has little shade.  We strongly recommend a good coating of both sunscreen and mosquito repellent.

This is a long, hard hike.  Bring water!  You might also consider bringing lunch to enjoy at Portage Glacier Lake.


Suitability

We believe this trail is only suitable for reasonably fit adults.


Trailhead

To find the trailhead, take the Whittier / Portage Glacier turnoff from Seward Hwy at the end of the Turnagain arm.  Follow the signs to Whittier.  This route takes you through a tunnel to Whittier.  The tunnel is a single lane on the railroad track and is one-way in one direction for 15 min, then switches and becomes one-way in the other direction for 15 min.  The train also uses this tunnel and has right of way.  In 2013, it cost $12 to travel to Whittier through the tunnel.   It was free on the way back.

After you depart the tunnel, look for the first road on the right (shortly after the restrooms).  The road is dirt and small and can be hard to spot.  That road crosses the railroad tracks and then you will see a sign for the Portage Glacier Trail.  The turnoff is NOT marked on the mail road to or from Whittier.  Follow the sign to the trail and park where the road ends.  The road was in very bad shape when we drove it with car-eating potholes.


The Hike

Prince William Sound
We found this hike on the National Park Service map (NPS Portage Glacier Trail).   According to that site, the hike was supposed to take 20 minutes to get to the alpine lake.  This was not correct; I don’t think even a very fit hiker could walk it that fast.  This was the most strenuous hike we've done so far; it took us at least 45 min to get to the top.  The first part of the trail was a constant climb--at times very steep--for a 750 ft rise in elevation.  Unlike most trails of this nature, there are essentially no level areas all the way to the top of the saddle; the closest hike Chris can remember to this trail is the Manitou Incline near Colorado Springs.  If you turn around when you take a rest break, you get beautiful views of Prince William Sound.

Upper Trail


After you reach the top of the saddle the trail starts right back down.  There is a small pond just over the saddle.  The trail works down to and past that pond, then heads, less steeply, down about 100 ft of elevation to an alpine lake.  One of the great things about hiking in Alaska is for every couple hundred feet elevation you push back the season by a couple of weeks.  For this hike, the top of the pass was just showing the earliest of the spring flowers in bloom.  


Streams and Water



The lake is lovely.  As you walk down the trail you see the lake ahead, a glacier to the left, the Portage Glacier straight ahead beyond the lake, and dozens of small creeks rolling down the hill to the right to merge into two very nice waterfalls.  The trail down to the lake was the bed of a very shallow creek for much of the way.  The water was shallow enough that wet feet were not an issue in hiking boots or (probably) tennis shoes.



Portage Glacier View


The alpine region is covered with wildflowers, grasses, willows, and alder.  It is very beautiful.  We followed the trail around to far end of the lake.  The trail at this point was nearly level and easy walking, but occasionally boggy or out-right muddy.  The trail splits at near the far end of the lake.  One part of the trail had trail markers and heads off to the left.  The other keeps going around the lake.  We continued around the lake first.  That trail ends at the stream carrying the water from the lake to the glacier lake.  What an incredible view it was!  We were very glad we’d taken that detour.




After enjoying the view, we headed back and took the other trail.  According to the National Park Service web site, the trail was supposed to end at the alpine lake.  From there, if you wanted to get to the Portage Glacier Lake you needed to bushwhack your way down.  That is now out-of-date.  Someone had recently cut a nice trail down the other 650 ft of elevation to the Portage Glacier Lake.   This part of the trail is much easier that the initial hike to the top of the saddle.  There are many level parts to the trail and most of the hike is mild to medium incline.  There are only a few steep parts.

Glacier Lake



The trail ends at the stream fed by the alpine lake near where it enters the Portage Glacier Lake.  The view of the glacier is terrific and the beach is relatively easy to navigate.  Unlike the Grewingk Glacier Lake, there were no icebergs visible in the lake while we were there.







The next time we do this hike, we're also going to investigate waders.  It looks like you can hike all the way around the lake to the glacier face.  However, a river breaks the beach just before the glacier and we were not equipped for wading in potentially deep, fast moving water.   

While we enjoyed the beach and recuperated for the trip back home, we were treated to the passage of the Ptarmigan (Ptarmigan Cruise Website).  This boat ride is on our must do list.  It cruised to within 50 feet of the glacier and we want to see the view from there at take photos.  

This was a truly great, but also very tough hike.  We will do it again and the next time we will bring more water and do lunch at the glacier.


 
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